At the same time, I fear that Frank Bruni’s ageless declaration might hold true. (And I hope it isn’t.) “This restaurant isn’t in the hospitality business,” he wrote, in reference to a now-forgotten failure. “It’s in the attitude business, projecting an aloofness that permeated all of my meals there.” 1 or 8 seems tailored to cartoon Williamsburg inhabitants, the ones who live in design magazines.

Paul Caine’s review of 1 or 8, the new Japanese restaurant in Williamsburg.

I’m pro anything that takes on borough related elitism/haughty-ness.